Who cast that first fateful tomato that started the La Tomatina revolution? The reality is no one knows. Maybe it was an anti-Franco rebellion, or a carnival that got out of hand. According to the most popular version of the story, during the 1945 festival of Los Gigantes (a giant paper mâché puppet parade), locals were looking to stage a brawl to get some attention. They happened upon a vegetable cart nearby and started hurling ripe tomatoes. Innocent onlookers got involved until the scene escalated into a massive melee of flying fruit. The instigators had to repay the tomato vendors, but that didn't stop the recurrence of more tomato fights—and the birth of a new tradition.
Fearful of an unruly escalation, authorities enacted, relaxed, and then reinstated a series of bans in the 1950s. In 1951, locals who defied the law were imprisoned until public outcry called for their release. The most famous effrontery to the tomato bans happened in 1957 when proponents held a mock tomato funeral complete with a coffin and procession. After 1957, the local government decided to roll with the punches, set a few rules in place, and embraced the wacky tradition.
Though the tomatoes take center stage, a week of festivities lead up to the final showdown. It's a celebration of Buñol's patron saints, the Virgin Mary and St. Louis Bertrand, with street parades, music, and fireworks in joyous Spanish fashion. To build up your strength for the impending brawl, an epic paella is served on the eve of the battle, showcasing an iconic Valencian dish of rice, seafood, saffron, and olive oil.
Today, this unfettered festival has some measure of order. Organizers have gone so far as to cultivate a special variety of unpalatable tomatoes just for the annual event. Festivities kick off around 10 a.m. when participants race to grab a ham fixed atop a greasy pole. Onlookers hose the scramblers with water while singing and dancing in the streets. When the church bell strikes noon, trucks packed with tomatoes roll into town, while chants of "To-ma-te, to-ma-te!" reach a crescendo.
Then, with the firing of a water cannon, the main event begins. That's the green light for crushing and launching tomatoes in all-out attacks against fellow participants. Long distance tomato lobbers, point-blank assassins, and medium range hook shots. Whatever your technique, by the time it's over, you will look (and feel) quite different. Nearly an hour later, tomato-soaked bombers are left to play in a sea of squishy street salsa with little left resembling a tomato to be found. A second cannon shot signals the end of the battle. | Tko je bacio onu prvu, sudbonosnu rajčicu kojom je započeta revolucija zvana La Tomatina? To nitko zapravo ne zna. Mogla je to biti pobuna protiv Franca ili pak karneval koji se oteo kontroli. Prema najpopularnijoj verziji priče, 1945.g., tijekom festivala Los Gigantes (parada divovskih lutaka od kaširanog papira), domaći su ljudi naumili inscenirati tuču ne bi li privukli pozornost gomile. Naišli su tako na štand s povrćem i stali se gađati zrelim rajčicama. Priključili su se i obični promatrači te se prizor izrodio u sveopću bitku letećim voćem. Krivci su morali nadoknaditi štetu prodavačima povrća, ali to nije spriječilo ponavljanje ovih okršaja rajčicama – i rađanje nove tradicije. U strahu od izbijanja nereda, vlasti su 50-ih godina uvele niz restrikcija, ublažile ih i potom ponovo vratile. Godine 1951. domaći ljudi koji su prkosili zakonu uhićeni su i pušteni tek nakon žestoke reakcije javnosti. Najznamenitiji i najdrskiji čin otpora režimu desio se 1957. kada su protivnici zabrane upriličili lažni pogreb za rajčicu, s mrtvačkim kovčegom i pogrebnom procesijom. Nakon 1957. lokalne su vlasti odlučile popustiti pod pritiskom. Uvedena su neka pravila ponašanja, ali je šašava tradicija ipak prihvaćena. Iako su u glavnoj ulozi rajčice, završnom događaju prethodi tjedan pun svečanosti. Uličnim paradama, glazbom i vatrometom u veselom španjolskom stilu slave se Buñolovi sveci zaštitnici, Djevica Marija i sv. Louis Betrand. Kako bi učesnici prikupili snagu za predstojeći obračun, večer uoči bitke služi se epska paelja, kultno valencijsko jelo od riže, plodova mora, šafrana i maslinova ulja. Ovaj neobuzdani festival danas je donekle doveden u red. Organizatori su čak uzgojili naročitu sortu nejestivih rajčica posebno za ovaj događaj. Svečanosti započinju oko 10 ujutro kada se učesnici krenu utrkivati tko će prvi dohvatiti pršut obješen pri vrhu namašćene motke. Gledatelji polijevaju natjecatelje šmrkom, pjevaju i plešu ulicama. Kad crkveno zvono oglasi podne, kamioni krcati rajčicama slijevaju se u grad, a skandiranje "To-ma-te, to-ma-te!" doseže vrhunac. Tada započinje glavni spektakl: plotun iz vodenog topa zeleno je svjetlo za gnječenje i bacanje rajčica tijekom nemilosrdnih napada na suučesnike. Dalekometni strijelci, ubojice iz neposredne blizine, parabole srednjeg dometa – kojom se god tehnikom služili, na kraju svega izgledat ćete (i osjećati se) sasvim drukčije. Gotovo sat vremena kasnije, rajčicama natopljeni bombaši ostavljeni su da se igraju u moru gnjecave ulične šalše, a bilo čega što bi nalikovalo na rajčicu gotovo da više i nema. Drugi plotun označava kraj bitke. |