Who cast that first fateful tomato that started the La Tomatina revolution? The reality is no one knows. Maybe it was an anti-Franco rebellion, or a carnival that got out of hand. According to the most popular version of the story, during the 1945 festival of Los Gigantes (a giant paper mâché puppet parade), locals were looking to stage a brawl to get some attention. They happened upon a vegetable cart nearby and started hurling ripe tomatoes. Innocent onlookers got involved until the scene escalated into a massive melee of flying fruit. The instigators had to repay the tomato vendors, but that didn't stop the recurrence of more tomato fights—and the birth of a new tradition.
Fearful of an unruly escalation, authorities enacted, relaxed, and then reinstated a series of bans in the 1950s. In 1951, locals who defied the law were imprisoned until public outcry called for their release. The most famous effrontery to the tomato bans happened in 1957 when proponents held a mock tomato funeral complete with a coffin and procession. After 1957, the local government decided to roll with the punches, set a few rules in place, and embraced the wacky tradition.
Though the tomatoes take center stage, a week of festivities lead up to the final showdown. It's a celebration of Buñol's patron saints, the Virgin Mary and St. Louis Bertrand, with street parades, music, and fireworks in joyous Spanish fashion. To build up your strength for the impending brawl, an epic paella is served on the eve of the battle, showcasing an iconic Valencian dish of rice, seafood, saffron, and olive oil.
Today, this unfettered festival has some measure of order. Organizers have gone so far as to cultivate a special variety of unpalatable tomatoes just for the annual event. Festivities kick off around 10 a.m. when participants race to grab a ham fixed atop a greasy pole. Onlookers hose the scramblers with water while singing and dancing in the streets. When the church bell strikes noon, trucks packed with tomatoes roll into town, while chants of "To-ma-te, to-ma-te!" reach a crescendo.
Then, with the firing of a water cannon, the main event begins. That's the green light for crushing and launching tomatoes in all-out attacks against fellow participants. Long distance tomato lobbers, point-blank assassins, and medium range hook shots. Whatever your technique, by the time it's over, you will look (and feel) quite different. Nearly an hour later, tomato-soaked bombers are left to play in a sea of squishy street salsa with little left resembling a tomato to be found. A second cannon shot signals the end of the battle. | Tko je bacio tu prvu sudbonosnu rajčicu koja je započela revoluciju rajčica? Istina je da nitko ne zna. Možda je to bila pobuna protiv Franaka ili karneval koji se oteo kontroli. Prema najpopularnijoj verziji priče, tijekom proslave Los Gigantesa 1945. godine (parada s ogromnim papirnatim lutkama), lokalno stanovništvo je htjelo inscenirati sukob kako bi privukli pažnju. Naišli su na štand s povrćem u blizini i počeli bacati zrele rajčice. Nevini promatrači uvučeni su sve dok situacija nije eskalirala u masovni okršaj letećeg voća. Izazivači su morali platiti odštetu prodavačima rajčica, no to nije spriječilo da se ubuduće ne desi još takvih okršaja rajčicama – i nastanak nove tradicije. Bojeći se nemira, vlast je donijela, ukinula te zatim ponovno uspostavila niz zabrana sredinom 1950-ih godina. 1951. godine, lokalno stanovništvo koje se protivilo zakonu, je zatvarano dok javnost nije zatražila da budu pušteni. Najpoznatiji incident vezan uz zabranu desio se 1957. godine kada su zagovornici održali tobožnji pogreb rajčica, zajedno s lijesom i povorkom. Nakon 1957. lokalna vlada odlučila je prihvatiti igru, uveli su nekoliko pravila i prihvatili šašavu tradiciju. Iako su rajčice u središtu pozornosti, cijeli tjedan proslava dovodi do glavne točke. Proslava je to svetaca zaštitnika Buñola, Djevice Marija i sv. Louisa Bertranda, s uličnim paradama, glazbom i vatrometom u veselom španjolskom stilu. Kako bi se pojačala snaga za nadolazeći sukob, na večer bitke poslužuje se veličanstvena paella, kao karakteristično valencijsko jelo od riže, morskih plodova, šafrana i maslinovog ulja. Danas ovaj nesputan festival ima određenog reda. Organizatori su otišli čak tako daleko da su uzgojili posebnu sortu bezukusnih rajčica samo za događaj. Proslave započinju oko 10 ujutro kada se sudionici utrkuju kako bi zgrabili šunku postavljenu na vrh masnog stupa. Promatrači polijevaju penjače vodom iz crijeva i pritom pjevaju i plešu po ulicama. Kada crkveno zvono označi podne, kamioni nakrcani rajčicama stižu u grad dok skandiranje ''Raj-či-ce, raj-či-ce!'' dostiže vrhunac. Zatim, s paljenjem vodenog topa, glavni događaj počinje. To je zeleno svjetlo za drobljenje i bacanje rajčica u beskompromisnim napadima protiv drugih sudionika. Dalekometni bacači rajčica, atentati iz neposredne blizine i horoci iz polu-odstojanja. Koja god bila Vaša tehnika, kada sve bude gotovo, izgledat ćete (i osjećati se) poprilično drugačije. Gotovo sat vremena kasnije, bombaši mokri od rajčica, igraju se u moru gnjecave ulične salse bez previše toga što bi više nalikovalo rajčicama. Još jedno paljenje topa označava da je bitci kraj. |