Who cast that first fateful tomato that started the La Tomatina revolution? The reality is no one knows. Maybe it was an anti-Franco rebellion, or a carnival that got out of hand. According to the most popular version of the story, during the 1945 festival of Los Gigantes (a giant paper mâché puppet parade), locals were looking to stage a brawl to get some attention. They happened upon a vegetable cart nearby and started hurling ripe tomatoes. Innocent onlookers got involved until the scene escalated into a massive melee of flying fruit. The instigators had to repay the tomato vendors, but that didn't stop the recurrence of more tomato fights—and the birth of a new tradition.
Fearful of an unruly escalation, authorities enacted, relaxed, and then reinstated a series of bans in the 1950s. In 1951, locals who defied the law were imprisoned until public outcry called for their release. The most famous effrontery to the tomato bans happened in 1957 when proponents held a mock tomato funeral complete with a coffin and procession. After 1957, the local government decided to roll with the punches, set a few rules in place, and embraced the wacky tradition.
Though the tomatoes take center stage, a week of festivities lead up to the final showdown. It's a celebration of Buñol's patron saints, the Virgin Mary and St. Louis Bertrand, with street parades, music, and fireworks in joyous Spanish fashion. To build up your strength for the impending brawl, an epic paella is served on the eve of the battle, showcasing an iconic Valencian dish of rice, seafood, saffron, and olive oil.
Today, this unfettered festival has some measure of order. Organizers have gone so far as to cultivate a special variety of unpalatable tomatoes just for the annual event. Festivities kick off around 10 a.m. when participants race to grab a ham fixed atop a greasy pole. Onlookers hose the scramblers with water while singing and dancing in the streets. When the church bell strikes noon, trucks packed with tomatoes roll into town, while chants of "To-ma-te, to-ma-te!" reach a crescendo.
Then, with the firing of a water cannon, the main event begins. That's the green light for crushing and launching tomatoes in all-out attacks against fellow participants. Long distance tomato lobbers, point-blank assassins, and medium range hook shots. Whatever your technique, by the time it's over, you will look (and feel) quite different. Nearly an hour later, tomato-soaked bombers are left to play in a sea of squishy street salsa with little left resembling a tomato to be found. A second cannon shot signals the end of the battle. | Tko je bacio tu prvu sudbonosnu rajčicu kojom je započela revolucija La Tomatina? Nitko zapravo ne zna. Možda se to dogodilo tijekom neke pobune protiv Franca ili za karnevala koji se oteo nadzoru. Najpopularnije tumačenje priče glasi da su 1945., za vrijeme festivala Los Gigantes (povorka divovskih lutaka od kaširana papira), mještani htjeli prirediti prepirku kako bi na sebe svratili malo pozornosti. Naišli su na kola s povrćem i počeli bacati zrele rajčice. Priključili su se i nedužni promatrači sve dok situacija nije eskalirala u opće gađanje letećim voćem. Kolovođe su prodavačima rajčica morali otplatiti, no to nije spriječilo nove sukobe rajčicama i stvaranje novog običaja. U strahu od neobuzdanog širenja vlasti su pedesetih donijele, ublažile pa ponovno uvele niz zabrana. Godine 1951. mještani koji su prkosili zakonu zatvoreni su sve dok javnost nije prosvjedovala tražeći njihovo oslobađanje. Najslavnije prkošenje zabrani gađanja rajčicama dogodilo se 1957. kada su zagovornici organizirali pogreb za rajčice s lijesom i pogrebnom povorkom. Nakon 1975. mjesna se vlast prilagodila, uvela nekoliko pravila i prihvatila šašavi običaj. Iako rajčice zauzimaju središnje mjesto, tjedan zabave vodi do konačnog obračuna. Proslava je to u čast svetaca zaštitnika Bunola, Djevice Marije i sv. Ljudevita Bertrandskog, s uličnim povorkama, glazbom i vatrometom u veselom španjolskom štihu. Za snagu za borbu koja slijedi večer uoči bitke poslužuje se golema "paella", znamenito valencijsko jelo s rižom, plodovima mora, šafranom i maslinovim uljem. Danas je ovaj nesputani festival donekle uređen. Organizatori su išli do te mjere da su uzgojili posebnu vrstu neukusnih rajčica samo za godišnji događaj. Proslava počinje oko 10 sati kada se sudionici utrkuju do stupa premazanog masti kako bi s njega skinuli šunku. Promatrači vodom polijevaju rulju koja pjeva i pleše na ulicama. Kada crkveno zvono odzvoni za podne, kamioni prepuni rajčica ulaze u grad, dok uzvici "To-ma-te, to-ma-te!" dosežu vrhunac. Glavni događaj započinje ispaljivanjem iz vodenog topa. Znak je to da se sudionici mogu početi gađati rajčicama u bespoštednom napadu. Grenadiri, ubojice iz neposredne blizine, lagani izbačaji s poluudaljenosti... Bez obzira na vaš način bacanja, kad vrijeme istekne, izgledat ćete (i osjećati se) podosta drukčije. Gotovo sat poslije, bombaši natopljeni rajčicama prepuštaju se igri u moru gnjecave salse s ulice; preostalo je malo toga što bi nalikovalo rajčici. Drugi hitac iz topa označava kraj borbe. |