Who cast that first fateful tomato that started the La Tomatina revolution? The reality is no one knows. Maybe it was an anti-Franco rebellion, or a carnival that got out of hand. According to the most popular version of the story, during the 1945 festival of Los Gigantes (a giant paper mâché puppet parade), locals were looking to stage a brawl to get some attention. They happened upon a vegetable cart nearby and started hurling ripe tomatoes. Innocent onlookers got involved until the scene escalated into a massive melee of flying fruit. The instigators had to repay the tomato vendors, but that didn't stop the recurrence of more tomato fights—and the birth of a new tradition.
Fearful of an unruly escalation, authorities enacted, relaxed, and then reinstated a series of bans in the 1950s. In 1951, locals who defied the law were imprisoned until public outcry called for their release. The most famous effrontery to the tomato bans happened in 1957 when proponents held a mock tomato funeral complete with a coffin and procession. After 1957, the local government decided to roll with the punches, set a few rules in place, and embraced the wacky tradition.
Though the tomatoes take center stage, a week of festivities lead up to the final showdown. It's a celebration of Buñol's patron saints, the Virgin Mary and St. Louis Bertrand, with street parades, music, and fireworks in joyous Spanish fashion. To build up your strength for the impending brawl, an epic paella is served on the eve of the battle, showcasing an iconic Valencian dish of rice, seafood, saffron, and olive oil.
Today, this unfettered festival has some measure of order. Organizers have gone so far as to cultivate a special variety of unpalatable tomatoes just for the annual event. Festivities kick off around 10 a.m. when participants race to grab a ham fixed atop a greasy pole. Onlookers hose the scramblers with water while singing and dancing in the streets. When the church bell strikes noon, trucks packed with tomatoes roll into town, while chants of "To-ma-te, to-ma-te!" reach a crescendo.
Then, with the firing of a water cannon, the main event begins. That's the green light for crushing and launching tomatoes in all-out attacks against fellow participants. Long distance tomato lobbers, point-blank assassins, and medium range hook shots. Whatever your technique, by the time it's over, you will look (and feel) quite different. Nearly an hour later, tomato-soaked bombers are left to play in a sea of squishy street salsa with little left resembling a tomato to be found. A second cannon shot signals the end of the battle. | 当年,究竟是谁鬼使神差掷出的第一个西红柿,引发了那场史无前例的西红柿大战?个中真相现已无从查考。它可能起源于反对佛朗哥政权的一次叛乱,或是一场失控的狂欢节。有关这个故事最流行的版本是1945年举行的“巨人节”(大型纸制木偶)巡游活动期间,一些当地民众为引人注目上演的一起斗殴事件。当时,这帮人从附近的一辆蔬菜手推车上,抓起一个个熟透的西红柿互相投掷。一时间,蔬菜、水果翻飞,硝烟四起,愈演愈烈,连一些旁观者也加入了这场大混战。虽然后来,那些肇事者还得赔偿西红柿商贩的损失,但这并没能阻止随后出现的多次西红柿大战——由此,一个新的传统习俗诞生了。 在20世纪50年代,因担心这类场面失控,当局多次颁布、又放开,然后再恢复了一系列禁令。 1951年,当地人只要有谁敢以身试法,就会受到监禁。舆论对此哗然,纷纷要求释放这些人。最不得人心的西红柿禁令发生在1957年。当时,支持者们还抬着一副棺材为西红柿举行了一个象征性葬礼和游行示威。 1957年以后,当地政府决定顺应民意,并制定了一些相应规定,令这项古怪习俗最终得以合法化。 在为期一周的庆典活动中,西红柿虽是主角,但却最后登场。举办这项庆典活动的目的是为了敬奉守护神布尼奥尔、圣母玛利亚和著名的“美洲使徒”圣路易斯贝特朗。活动项目包括街头游行、音乐和焰火表演等,展现了欢快的西班牙风情。在西红柿大战前夕,为储备参战实力,人们会饱餐一顿由大米、海鲜、藏红花和橄榄油烹制的海鲜饭,这顿盛宴具有浓郁的巴伦西亚特色。 如今,这项无拘无束的节庆狂欢已有了一定的监管措施。组织者们还特地为这项一年一度的盛事培育了多个口味难吃的西红柿品种。狂欢活动在上午10点左右拉开序幕,参加者竞相攀爬一根涂满油脂的木杆,争抢放置在木杆顶端的一块火腿。伴着街道两旁的歌舞表演,围观者会用水枪冲射攀爬者。当教堂的钟声鸣响午时正点,多辆满载西红柿的卡车驶入小镇。随即,节庆活动在人群高喊“TO-MA-TE,TO-MA-TE(西红柿)!”的欢呼声中达到一个高潮。 然后,随着一声冲天水炮响,狂欢好戏正式开场。每人各自为阵,抓取捏烂的西红柿相互全力攻击。有的远距离投射,有的直接对面开张,有的则是锁定目标偷袭。无论你的投弹技术如何,到大战结束时,你自己都早已面目全非,但心情却格外舒畅。大约一个小时后,全身浸透西红柿汁液的投弹手们会留在湿软的街道上,一同跳起激情洋溢的莎莎舞。此时,现场几乎找不到一个完整的番茄了。当第二声冲天水炮响起时,宣告西红柿狂欢活动已结束。 |